10 creative ways to give food to your dog

Giving food doesn’t have to always look the same. Actually, changing the way you deliver it can make the food more valuable to your dog. It’s a very useful trick if your dog can only eat a few types of food or if they have just done something amazing and you only have kibble on you.

straight from your hand

This is the simplest way of delivering treats, but simple doesn’t mean bad. Giving treats in the same place (for example in front of you or by your leg) and with the same speed creates a predictable pattern and it can help keep the arousal level down. Well-planned reward delivery can make training faster and more precise.

thrown into the air, so that your dog has to catch it

This game requires some training both for you and for your dog. If your aim isn’t that great, your dog will have their work cut out for them! This delivery method requires focus and skill from your dog but it can also get them quite excited.

Don’t play it if your dog has orthopaedic issues!

scatter feeding

Sniffing and chewing calms dogs down and it fulfils their natural need to scavenge. You need no training and you can adjust the difficulty level as much as you need:

  • vary the size of the treats (the smaller they are, the harder it is to find them)
  • work with contrast (cheese on pavement vs. kibble on the ground)
  • play with smelliness
  • try different locations (balancing on a stone, searching through tall grass, searching above nose level on low hanging tree branches)

Sky is the limit here! Just remember that is supposed to be fun, not frustrating.

swimming in the water

This is a great activity for the summer. Even dogs who are suspicious towards water might be tempted to go in. It is also quite challenging! However, be cautious:

  • Don’t put the treats too far in the water, don’t push your dog beyond their comfort level!
  • Some dogs drink a lot when they do this, pay attention that they don’t drink too much (as usual less is more!).

bury them in the sand

Some dogs love to dig. Providing a safe outlet for this hobby can save your garden and it is fun for your dog. The better their nose, the deeper you can bury the treats.

roll it on the pavement

Most dogs get a kick out of chasing things – this is another situation where providing a safe outlet for their needs can strengthen your bond and save you from trouble. Consider this technique especially if your dog likes to hunt.

  • Dry, roundish treats are the best here.
  • Make sure your dog is paying attention to your hand when you roll the treat (otherwise they might miss it).
  • Be careful! Only do this with healthy dogs.
  • Rolling the treat can increase its value for the dog. It’s useful when you know your treats are not as good as the distraction your facing.


This game can also feel quite satisfying to dogs who like to hunt. Move the treat slowly, make sure your dog is following it with their eyes. You can add a step or two and have the dog “stalk” the treat. After 2-3 moves (or more if your dog is a pro) throw the treat away, let them catch the prey 🙂

treat tree

Trees and fallen trees are perfect places for a treat search. If you place them on low hanging branches the dog has to sniff above nose level and get up on hind legs to get the treats. Or you can spread them out over a fallen tree trunk and the dog has to balance on it to find them. This game can help improve your dog’s balance, coordination and body awareness.

  • As usual make sure your dog is not in pain!

leaf search

There is nothing better (or more challenging) than throwing a handful or treats into a pile of dry leaves. This is quite hard so if your dog is a novice use larger pieces of food and help them if they need it!

shredding master

Dogs also love to shred. Make small toilet paper roll packages or simply crumple up paper with a handful of treats.  Your dog can have fun tearing it to pieces to get to the food and you just put your garbage to a good use this way! This is also a good way to occupy little piranhas (I mean puppies), just make sure they don’t swallow the paper.

Original post by Donau Dogs.

10 reasons to use food on walks

Food is just so very useful! You can use it to…

…figure out how stressed your dog is

If the dog is refusing food they are probably quite stressed! Get out of that situation and rethink your options! (Tip: can you increase the distance from the trigger, lower its intensity or shorten the exposure time?)

…calm them down

Sniffing for food is as natural an activity as it gets (dogs are scavengers first and hunters by necessity!). It provides information about the environment and has an overall calming effect on dogs. Looking for treats also helps them boost their confidence, they find them all on their own 🙂 If your dog is new to this, remember to start with larger, more smelly treats.

If your dog is too nervous to sniff, you can try giving them a chew toy. Chewing also calms them down.

…wear them out

Once again: sniffing for treats. Set up puzzles for your dog: put the food between dry leaves or in tall grass, smear it on stones or a tree trunk… Let them figure it out! You can also use various surfaces like large stones or fallen trees to provide some natural balancing exercises for them.

…reward good behaviors

Most dogs like to eat (and if they seem healthy but don’t like to eat, you might want to see a vet about it). When it comes to variety, sky is the limit for food AND you can chop it up as small or as large as you need it. That’s why food is the most practical reward in many situations.

…strengthen your relationship

Find out what are your dog’s favourite foods and treat them from time to time, not just when you’re training.

…create positive associations

For reasons described above, food is usually the reinforcer of choice for situations when we want to change how the dog feels about something (counter-conditioning). Remember, the dog chooses what works for them in a given situation!

…keep the dog in one place

Do you ever worry about finding poop and keeping an eye on your dog at the same time? Just throw them a couple of treats, that will keep them occupied while you play poop detective.

…distract the dog

Do you see a weird person approaching? Or maybe there is a dog coming and you can’t cross the street? There is nothing wrong with distracting your dog when you can’t train or manage the situation differently.

…get rid of “friendly” dogs

While you should not feed other people’s dogs without their permission, sometimes you can make an exception. Unfortunately, many owners don’t care that your dog might not want contact with Fido and throwing a handful of treats may just be enough to make Fido stop before they reach your dog.

…keep the dogs occupied in the car

Who eats, doesn’t bark!  If the dog barks at stuff outside (and doesn’t have motion sickness) giving them a Kong or a lickymat for the duration of the ride can save your ears. Darkening the windows or installing a box might also be helpful for you.

Originally posted by Donau Dogs.

Help, my dog pulls on the leash!


In this series we have written time and time again that equipment cannot replace training and you should not use anything that causes them discomfort and pain to make dogs stop pulling (or barking, or jumping…). At the same time, many dogs are very strong and they pose danger:

    • to their owners (sprained wrists, leash burns, injuries from falls…),
    • to themselves (running blindly under cars), and
    • to other dogs (especially if they get loose).

In this post you will learn how to manage the situation while you train them to stop pulling (preferably with a competent professional).

Continue reading “Help, my dog pulls on the leash!”

Dog walking… a dream job?

The image of a dog walker in our heads (or mine at least) is that of the woman walking 10 tiny, fluffy dogs at once on the street of New York1 or of a veterinary student making some money on the side. As it happens, one of my good friends started out this way (as a vet student, not pet sitter for posh people in NYC). But the business – Donau Dogs – that she runs now with her partner is something quite different. I visited them in October to find out more.

The bulk of their business consists of walking a group of dogs in the mornings – they take up to 10 dogs (5 per person) + their own two companions.

Managing a group this large requires strong focus and superb ability to read canine body language – the situation can spin out of control quickly with so many dogs, because, well, they are dogs.

Choosing the right place to walk is paramount – the fewer other dogs you meet, the less you have to “police” the group.

Contrary to popular belief they don’t have to take the dogs for a 10km tour, sometimes they barely walk 1km. But think about it in dog terms. The trip is bursting with stimuli: someone picks them up, they travel by car, get out, walk, sniff, play, search for food, see what the others are up to… That’s really tiring!

A new dog can join the group after an adaptation period when the owner comes along. The length of the adaptation period depends on how quickly the dog becomes comfortable with the group.

Most, but not all of them, will eventually enjoy off-leash privileges. Determining which dogs can be let off leash is an important skill. Some dogs just like hunting too much or are too excitable to be off leash in this situation. You just can’t pay the same amount of attention when you have 5+ dogs running around…

Food, best distributed generously, is one of the most important tools for a dog walker. Remember, these are not their dogs: that means that they have less reason to listen if something else catches their attention.

If none of the dogs have resource guarding issues, they won’t fight over food as long as there is enough treats for everybody.

Apart from rewarding the dogs, the food can also be scattered for treat searches – sniffing is engaging, relaxing and can serve as a good distraction. Obviously, dietary restrictions need to be taken into consideration.

Special needs have to be respected. For example, if they have a puppy with them and the puppy wants to lie down and observe, then it gets to lie down and observe.

Being a dog walker is much more than just playing with the doggies. Actually, my friends spend as much – if not more – time driving around, as walking the dogs. They have to pick them up, bring them back home and so on. As you might suspect, they also spend quite some time vacuum cleaning their apartment…

There is also a fair amount of administration and logistics involved to keep their human clients happy. But at the end of the day, what matters most to them is keeping their canine clients happy and that is quite simple. They get to do dog stuff: sniff, eat, frolic and occasionally roll in smelly things. 


Help, my dog loses control around other dogs! 

I know that walking a dog that pulls on the leash, jumps around and barks can be exhausting and frustrating. But trust me, they are not doing it to spite you. Contrary to what we like to believe, many dogs struggle with interactions with their peers, especially if they are on the leash1. In this post, we will explore the main reasons behind this problem and look at possible solutions.

At the same time, every situation is different, and this can be a tricky issue to train so it is always best to contact a competent, non-violent dog trainer who can help you personally.


In general, dogs “overreacting” to other dogs are mostly motivated either by fear or by excitement. In both cases the problem is the inappropriate level of arousal: the dog is not in control of their actions which also means they can’t listen to us then.

Just like people, dogs need to learn social skills and the experiences they make when they’re young can determine their behaviour later on2. Other contributing factors are their personality, stress levels, age and health. While you can’t change your dog’s personality or age, you can make sure that they’re healthy and not stressed out.

multiple dogs on the danube shore
Well-socialized dogs respect each other’s personal space.
© Heide Klinger/Donau Dogs

What does your dog really want?

One of the most important things to remember is that each behaviour serves a purpose and it is crucial for us to recognize what that purpose is.

  • A dog that loves playing with other dogs probably pulls on the leash (or barks or jumps) because they learned that their human will eventually give up and let them approach.
  • A dog that is fearful has probably learned that pulling, barking and jumping makes the other dogs go away.

Basically, they are trying to either decrease or increase the distance to the other dogs. They behave the way they do because it was a successful strategy and we “simply” need to teach them a different one.

Recognizing your dog’s motivation is key for further training because it will determine the reinforcement you use. In these situations typically food or play can be used to help the process along but your dog can only be efficiently rewarded with something that they want in a given situation (that is: getting closer to or further from the other dog) 3.

4 dogs, one of them on the leash
If dogs in a group know each other and have good manners, some can be on the leash (or often must if they’re with a dog walker) – they will respect the canine social etiquette and give each other space.
© Heide Klinger/Donau Dogs

The vicious circle of arousal – do not punish!

As I have mentioned above, the main issue is that your dog is too aroused to control their own actions. Regardless of their motivation, further increasing the arousal level will only make the situation worse. Shouting, jerking the leash, smacking your dog (or any other aversive action) will not make your dog calm down. What they can achieve is:

  • increase your dog’s stress level
  • make them fear you
  • destroy their trust in you
  • make them less likely to want to be close to you – which is the opposite of what you want in this situation

Aversive trainers often claim (quick!) success with their methods. But what they do is behaviour suppression, not behaviour modification. Many of these dogs either get more and more stressed out until they snap and “bite out of nowhere” (sounds familiar?) or they fall into the state of learned helplessness. 4 I can’t imagine you want any of that for yours.

multiple dogs sniffing next to each other
Having places where your dog always gets to search for treats during the walk can help your dog regulate their arousal: they add predictability and sniffing itself has a calming effect.
© Heide Klinger/Donau Dogs

Ok, so what can I do?


  • learn to read canine body language, so that you can assess your dog’s emotional state, as well as the other dogs that you meet
  • train only in situations that you can control – your dog can only train when they’re not too excited
  • invest in a harness – constant pulling on the leash while wearing a collar can lead to tracheal damage; the dogs pulling and wheezing are not suffering from asthma, they just have trouble breathing.
  • eliminate as many stressors as possible from their life – have a look at your dog’s routine: do they get enough of down time? are there other things that freak them out? is their day predictable enough to feel safe? (learn more about relaxed and yet engaging walks)


  • remain calm – it’s easier for your dog to keep their cool if you keep yours
  • always have treats on you – if your dog is into food  you can distract them before they notice the other dog- drop the treats early enough and they might just focus on them instead of freaking out5
  • support your dog – if they are fearful help them maintain a safe distance from other dogs
  • make sure all interactions are chill and positive – if you have the “lovingly-excited” dog you don’t want to prohibit all interactions with dogs, which would be punishing. Instead, find a friend or two with calm, well-socialized dogs and hang out with them, or join a social walk organized by a competent trainer.
  • always tell your dog when they’re doing well. here is a list of behaviours you can reward:
    • slowing down
    • approaching other dogs in a bow
    • looking away
    • turning away
    • looking at you
    • sitting down
    • lying down
    • sniffing
When off-leash, dogs can communicate clearly: Leus (on the left) approaches the other dog in a curve, a little tensely. The dog sprints at her, she jumps so that they stand in opposite directions and turns her head away. Tension dissolved, the other dog gets re-called and both dogs shake themselves off.

But what if a dog off-leash approaches us?

The default is: dogs should meet only off leash. If you see someone approaching with a dog on a leash, you should leash your dog too and keep a safe distance. If you keep your dog leashed, the other dog owners should do the same for you. If they are unwilling to do so, you can resort to these two tricks:

  • You can stop the approaching dog by throwing a lot of yummy treats – make sure that they can see it, make a fuss if needed. More often than not, the dog will pause to retrieve free food and you can quickly retreat.
  • You can motivate the owner to respect your request and leash their dog/move away by telling them… that your dog has fleas or other parasites. Seriously.

When off-leash, dogs can communicate clearly: Leus (on the left) approaches the other dog in a curve, a little tensely. The dog sprints at her, she jumps so that they stand in opposite directions and turns her head away. Tension dissolved, the other dog gets re-called and both dogs shake themselves off.


Last but not least, let us look at four common myths that might be slowing your progress:

Your dog pulls because they’re dominant and trying to control the situation NOT TRUE
Quite the opposite, it’s a sign that they’re overwhelmed.

A harness will make your dog pull more (because they won’t be “corrected” [=punished] for doing so) – NOT TRUE
You really can’t do anything wrong by looking out for your dog’s health; also, the tightening collar restricts access to oxygen, which in turn increases arousal (stress) instead of decreasing it.

All dogs love playing with each otherNOT TRUE
Watching dogs play is a delight but studies of free roaming dogs have shown that adults dog rarely engage in play. Like people, dogs are individuals and vary in their sociability.

You should never pick up a small dogNOT TRUE
You should learn to evaluate when your dog needs help and when they don’t. Let them handle as many situations as they can but if it’s too much, by all means do pick them up, this way they’ll know you’re on their side.