I think that once you get into training, it suddenly seems so simple! But sooner or later everyone gets stuck and discovers that given the right skills it is easy, but it is not simple… Follow these three steps to make training more fun and effective for you and for you learner.
In this series we have written time and time again that equipment cannot replace training and you should not use anything that causes them discomfort and pain to make dogs stop pulling (or barking, or jumping…). At the same time, many dogs are very strong and they pose danger:
- to their owners (sprained wrists, leash burns, injuries from falls…),
- to themselves (running blindly under cars), and
- to other dogs (especially if they get loose).
In this post you will learn how to manage the situation while you train them to stop pulling (preferably with a competent professional).
What is aversive equipment?
A stimulus is aversive when it is something that the dog will work to avoid. We define equipment as aversive when it causes discomfort or pain to the dog by design 2, in order to make them behave the way we want.
Muzzles are disliked by many dog owners, because we automatically associate a dog wearing a muzzle with aggression. But actually there’s a wide range of situations in which muzzles are required by the law (for example on public transport). With appropriate training, your dog should have no problem wearing a well-fitted muzzle.
Leash might be a piece of equipment you’ve never given much thought to, but believe me, they were not all created equal. This post will help you choose the most appropriate leash for you and your dog based on your activities and needs.
The main leash types you’ll encounter are:
- short leashes (below 1.5 meters)
- normal leashes (1.5-3 meters)
- retractable leashes (usually 5 meters)
- long leashes (5m and longer)